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Scooter Setup Page
                 
 
EcoBike USA • Motor Scooter/Motorcycle Sales & Service • Hephzibah, GA •(706) 360-9455 E-mail: manager@ecobikeusa.com
 
If you buy a Scooter from ECOBIKEUSA - You always get help! Call us if you need assistance.
 
Long Page - Scroll down to see it all.
Setting up a new Motofino Scooter is pretty simple! You only have to release the handbrake bands, roll it out of the crate, and connect the battery. Then put on the mirrors with the tools that came with it. Here is an exhaustive explanation of the fine details...
 
* Filling the battery with electrolyte and charging before installation.
* Installing the battery and connecting it.
* Check lighting functions, turn signals, tail light, stop light.
* Check all bolt security on wheels and Scooter muffler attachments especially.
* Check steering for tightness, and function left and right.
* Check brake functions and handgrips.
* Check throttle function and travel.
* Inspect engine oil level.
* Install rear-view mirrors and adjust positioning.
* Bring up tire pressure to driving pressures.
* Gas up the fuel tank.
* Break-in the Scooter.
Drive carefully and enjoy your new freedom!
Step by Step Set-up Instructions
Put your Mouse over all images on this page -most enlarge when clicked. Be sure to click again to collapse the enlarged image before mouse clicking another.
 
First, attend to positioning the sealed crate somewhere where you can work comfortably to remove the Scooter and set aside the considerable packaging, padding, the support tubes, cardboard, or other packing. Cut the crate strap banding and lift the top off the crate carton . Cut the carton sides. Remove the hand-grip plastic holding brake bands, so you can grab the handle bars and roll the Scooter out of the crate.

Once you've rolled it out of the carton , place the Bike on it's side lean-stand securely, by kicking down the left lean kick stand, or lift it on it's centerstand with the left side foot pedal lifter, while pulling back on the handlebars or back seat grip, to ease it on the centerstand. If you decide to lean-stand it, rock back on the Scooter and be sure it is stable before you leave it. Once you have the thing unpacked and stable, contain your enthusiasm for how good it looks and direct your attention to the packing material and carton you just removed. Sift through all that stuff very closely making sure nothing that looks important is going to be thrown away!

Parts to install are in the under-seat storage box . The photo at right explains how to open it Click on the photo and it will explode so you can read it. The main ignition switch key un-locks the seatbox on this Scooter. Other models use a key to open the box with the key slot located on the left rear cowling of the Scooter. Turn key firmly to open.
Note - Other Motofino products have the parts to install located in a separate cardboard box in the shipping crate.
 
Right now is a good time to lubricate all key locks and latches on your scooter. You can use powdered graphite, or oil, or light grease to do it. Just get it done so things work smoothly and effortlessly. We like to use a lithium base spray grease in a spraycan.
 
The middle photo above shows the contents of the scooter seatbox: 1.- The instruction book, warranty card, and spare key in a clear plastic bag, 2,- A cardboard box containing your rear-view mirrors, and 3,- A cardboard box containing your sealed Lead-Acid battery and plastic multi-cell install electrolyte plastic bottles which allow easy battery filling. If the battery is missing from the underseat storage box don't panic. It will be in the actual floorboard battery compartment, un-connected, dry. This is where the battery is put especially on the larger engined Motor Scooters. You may have to grasp the battery by its terminals to lift it out gently. Since it has no electrolyte in it yet there is no voltage or current present, so it poses no hazard.
 
 
Fill the battery with the plastic filler-install bottles supplied. This process is one of removing the foil tape strip from the battery top so the filler slot cap can be removed to expose all 6 fill holes and filling the battery with acid electrolyte from filler bottles. This is a medium dangerous operation only because of the acid, so wear safety glasses when you actually fill the battery with acid. Filling the battery is easy with the plastic filler bottles supplied. Once the battery filler ports are exposed, get the filler bottles and remove the black plastic caps, which all come off at once. (The pictures at right show what the VLRA type sealed lead acid battery looks like, along with the acid filler bottles. Click on the Yuasa Book picture to bring up their PDF telling you all about it. Pages 26, and 27 show in detail what we are doing here.) Now, with the acid filler bottle caps removed, you'll notice the caps still have a foil cover over them on the bottles. Don't remove it! Simply invert the bottles over the battery filler ports and firmly push down until they seat. This action automatically cuts the foil bottle covering allowing the battery to fill. You will find they fit perfectly into the filler ports. Watch to see that all 6 filler bottles are bubbling a little and draining OK. Go take a break! The acid will drain into the battery cells slowly, and you want to be positive every drop of acid goes into the battery. Come back in 5 minutes and tap the acid bottles a little to see its all gone in.
Now shake, or tap the battery laterally a little, and let any air bubble rise to the surface.Let it sit 5 more minutes. After that, then push on the battery cover plate firmly and replace the foil tape strip you removed. Never remove the foil strip after that. By the act of installing the electrolyte the battery now has about an 80% charge. You still need to charge it with a trickle battery charger that delivers 450 to 600 Milliamperes of current, until the voltage across the terminals reads 12.8 to 13.00 Volts D.C.. Then wait 10 minutes after you have removed the charger. The open circuit battery terminals should read 12.5 to 12.8 volts after 5 hours indicating you now have a fully charged sealed battery you can install in the Scooter.
 
 
 
Take off any rings, necklaces, or metal objects you might be wearing, and make certain none of your tools slide into, or short the battery in any way while doing your installation. A shorted battery is like an arc-welder!
 
Installing the battery is simple. Refer to the enlargeable photos above- Remove the rubber floor mat to expose thebattery compartment.
 
 
Remove the compartment cover by removing two screws. Lift the cover plate out and set it aside. Now fish out the Red lead, Black lead and the Red-wired Fuse
Holder lead. Find the little package of battery hardware nuts and screws packed in clear plastic in the battery cardboard box. Stop and make sure the ignition switch is set to the "OFF" position. Using the screws and nuts supplied, slide the nuts under the battery terminals and connect the red leads ends with rings on them to the Positive terminal on the battery using the screws provided into the nuts you just placed under the terminals. Connect the Positive side first, and then the negative single black lead. Tighten screws securely, they need to remain tight! Make sure the fuse is tight in the white plastic snapping shut fuse-holder. Install the battery down in the Scooter battery well compartment, dressing the leads as shown. Screw down and replace the floorboard cover. You are finished with the battery!
 
 
Now stop and see about... Checking all your lighting and Functions. All the lights will work except the constant tail light and the head light with engine not running. Refer to the enlargeable clickable picture at the right, or your operation manual.
* Turn the key to on position...
* Grasp either hand brake and squ eeze it. - The stop light will come on. Check that either hand brake activates the stoplight.
* Whilst squeezing a hand brake - tap the starter button - You should hear the starter crank. Release immediately!
* Push the the turn signal switch button to the left, or right - The left or right front and rear turning lights will flash. To cancel the flashing, momentarily push in on the turn signal switch button and release. The flashing will stop.
* Push the horn button - The horn will sound.
 
 
 
The pre-running function testing is complete. Make sure you turn off the ignition switch! If you forget, the battery will run down, and you'll have to use the kick starter to start your engine, or take out and re-charge the battery. Running the scooter by driving it every day will eventually charge the battery, but short trips won't do it.
 
 
Twist your throttle control - both in and out, to check and see if it operates smoothly and is not loose, returns smoothly when released. There are two places to adjust the travel of the throttle cable, at the carb itself, which requires removal of the engine cowls to access, and at the barrel-nut adjusting set immediately under the throttle control in the cable. Just slide off the rubber boot and adjust as required, except you should never tighten the throttle cable to where it has no slack at all. leave a 1/4 inch.
Normally, no adjustment is required when new, Look at it in 6 months or more.
 
Check the bolt security on all wheels and the muffler, or anything attached to the muffler Highly un-likely you'll find anything loose, but its your butt!- Locate your tool kit included with your Scooter. Check every bolt you see in the muffler area, and wheel area, and make sure they are tight, except the rear brake adjustment nut. We'll cover that later. All of these bolts should be tight and some have been set with threadlocker at the factory on the muffler mounting. If the factory missed a bolt to tight, or it vibrated loose in shipping it is up to you to find it and tighten it before you drive! A lot of people back out muffler attaching bolts some, and apply a threadlocker, and re-tighten. Good idea! Guard against overtightening. Remember, you are a Scooter pilot, so always do a pre-flight!

Next step is to place the Scooter on its centerstand if it isn't there already, and move the handle steering all the way left and right. It should operate smoothly with no noticeable binding, and the travel both left and right should be the same. If there is binding it is probably due to a loose wire bundle tie under the front cowling, as opposed to a serious mechanical problem. In any event you must investigate and clear it by removing all the inside cockpit screws and removing the front panel cover which has one screw to inspect.

Next... Stand facing the Scooter with the front wheel between your legs, reach out with each hand and lift up on the handlebars. See if you can discover any vertical play. A vertical play you can just bearly discern is insignificant. If you feel it move what seems a 16th of an inch or more, better investigate! Remove cowling and inspect wheel fork bearing nut for tightness! I've never heard of a loose one, but this is a huge a safety item, and should be checked periodically!

Grasp each hand brake, and squeeze it firmly to see where it bottoms out. You are checking the travel by squeezing, to be certain each handle activates its appropriate brake adequately. Read your instruction booklet for more information . Handgrip travel is adjustable on disk and band brakes with brake cable. Cable slack can be removed from the rear brake by tightening in the self-stopping nut at the rear wheel brake arm lever. Hydraulic brakes must not bottom out, which would indicate a loss of brake fluid. Refill with brake fluid with DOT type 3 fluid. Inspect the hydraulic brake hose at the front wheel. Barrel cable adjusters control travel for front brakes.

Check the Scooter engine oil level. Unscrew the oil dipstick completely, wipe it, and replace in oil filler port without screwing it in.
Withdraw dip stick and look at oil level in the engine. It should read full, or almost full. Full would be oil showing at the point where the checkered smaller portion of the stick transits to the larger round part of the measuring rod, as shown in the picture at right.

Please do not think you should drain the oil out that came in your Scooter! It is of adequate quality, and does not need to be changed. A new Motofino Scooter should be run for 300 kilometers or 180 miles before it is changed to insure the pistons and rings are completely seated and broken in. After that you can change the oil to a synthetic blend type oil if you wish. Use a 10W-30, normally, or 10W-40 if in very hot climates. Changing oil to a synthetic blend too soon results in making the engine parts too slippery and prevents proper break in. Actually, engine break-in is a semi-destructive process! Enough wear has to happen to seat the piston rings to the cylinder walls. Of course in the unlikely chance the oil is low, add some to the fill full level on the dipstick.
 
Install Mirrors on Scooter. Use the wrenches supplied with your toolkit. First un-wrap the mirrors from th e packaging and inspect the threaded mirror stem ends. Check to see no threads are damaged. It is a good idea to check the mirror threaded holes in the Scooter to to be sure they contain no debris. If there is any remove it. Now put some light oil on the threads in the mirror mount holes, and lightly oil the mirror stem threads. This helps install the mirrors. Back off the mirror stem locking nut all the way. Next, screw in the mirrors to the Scooter being careful not to start them cross-threaded! Hand screw them in until they bottom out. Rotate the mirror stem until the stem with its curvature is aligned at the same angle as the handgrip handlebar. Now you can use a wrench to lock down the nut on the mirror stem, securing the mirror in place. Slide the nut cover boot down over the locking nut.

After both mirrors are installed sit in the seat and position the mirror so you can see behind you. Often the best visibility is made when the mirror itself is length wise almostin- line with the mirror mounting stem. They are positioning fully-adjustable, with good pre-tension.
 
 
At this point, just before we gas up and start the Scooter, I want you to make very sure you have done these things! The Odds are these point are just fine, but a professional would check them, and I want you to check them for your own safety! I also want you to fill out your warranty card, and be sure to have your new scooter inspected by a lawn mower or small engine mechanic.

1. Did you really check the wheel bolt nuts to be sure they are tight?
2. I asked you to check the Hydraulic Brake line for your front disk brake . Did you? Make very sure it is clear of the wheel, and does not rub on the front wheel! If it does, you will wear a hole in the brake line immediately and lose your front brakes while the DOT 3 brake fluid leaks out! The factory provides a brake line stand -off clip attached to the hose to prevent this from ever happening, but what if it has been bent out of place in transit and allows it? Check it, be sure!

3. If your scooter has an inner fender on the rear wheel be sure the bolts are tight! It must not ever rub the tire. If it does it will eventually catch just right and be ripped off! Check this by rotating the rear-wheel and observing.
 
Gas up! BUT BEFORE YOU DO. Get your household vacuum cleaner out. Stick its nozzle down in the gas tank and suck out any tank debris! (Don't expect any, this is just a precaution.)
There should be none anyway, but some poor factory line soul might have missed that, so be sure there is no crap in in the gas tank. Why chance filling it before double checking? If there is debris in there It will slow the flow to your fuel filter causing early filter change out! Truly, chances are you won't find any, It is a Motofino!
Unlock the gas cap with your key. Fill the tank with 90 Octane, No-Lead Gasoline or above. Note- You can run Ethanol E85, if you want, but your engine will make less horsepower, and get poorer mileage. Avoid Ethanol if at all possible, and use only 91 octane of a better grade gaosline fuel. Fill the tank only to a level at least 1.5 inches below the fill lip. There is a fuel nozzle insert stop in the tank. A good idea is to only put fuel in until it reaches that level.
The Scooter has a gravity fed fuel system, with an automatic fuel shut-off valve., controlled by vacuum generated by the engine intake manifold. It flows fuel better if the tank is not completely full.
If you spill any gas while filling it will drain through the body sump drain. It is a great idea to lubricate the lock key hole and mechanism on the locking gas cap so it works so much easier! Insert key and twist left firmly to remove cap.
 
 
Start the Engine It isn't usually necessary to twist the throttle open at all to start, but if you do, just barely open it. (always start the scooter on its stand) Simply turn on the ignition to ON and put the Run-Kill Switch to RUN position. Squeeze a handbrake , and press the START button. Do not hold the start button on for more than 10 seconds at a time! You could overheat and damage the starter. It will last a long time if your get into the habit of always using the starter in short bursts to start the engine. A brand new Scooter will sometimes start the first try, but also it may take a couple cranks to get the fuel into the carburetor, especially if it is out of gas, or been sitting awhile. After the engine starts let it run at idle for 3 minutes before you drive off. Be sure to retract your kickstand first!

Break-in Driving Driving the Scooter can be about any way you want to! However it is important you do not run at the same speed for 5 minutes at a time, especially at higher throttle settings. In fact, for the first 30 minutes you drive the Scooter, I would advise rapid changes in speed, never holding the same speed longer than 3 minutes. Keep varying your speed frequently for the first 50 miles.

This helps the engine adapt to its own internal mechanics and clearances and greatly helps the break-in wear process, helping it not over-heat and develop friction hot spots. Most of the real break-in happens in the first 25 miles.
 
Re-setting the Engine idling speed adjustment screw- Refer to the enlargeable photo at the right... Inside the underseat box there is a removable access plate which comes off with one screw. As your Scooter breaks in, it may be necessary to increase the engine idling speed after a few hours. The white arrow in the picture on the right show the location of this spring loaded screw, barely visible in the photo when clicked andenlarged. Use your kit Phillips head screw driver to adjust. Turn the screw clockwise to increase engine speed. Only set this screw after the engine is warmed up, and the automatic choke has allowed the engine speed to decrease. Make your adjustment only a half turn or less. A little change makes a big difference. An easy way to do this is place your Scooter on its centerstand first to make the adjustment. Never speed the engine up so far the rear wheel stays turning. Stay just below that point

Inflate Tires to Driving Road Pressures. Unlock the underseat seat storage box and read the manufacturing label which also contains tire pressure information for the front and rear tire, among other data. For this example, a MF125QT2, the front should be 29PSI cold, while the rear is set to 36 PSI. These figures are for this particular Scooter and tire, and may vary with other Scooters. The Scooter tires will require adding air, because they are shipped partially deflated. It is dangerous to drive it with insufficient air pressure as it will not handle correctly, won't go as fast, and may damage the tires

Have a great time motoring economically with your new Motofino Scooter, and Congratulations! You may want to check our Motofino Maintenance Page.
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